Some models are better than others, but you're not going to find one that is completely unnoticeable. Ductless systems make noise too, but they operate a lot more quietly.
If noise is a big concern for you, you'll be much happier with a ductless system. Price - You may be wondering "How much do mini split systems cost? However, they also last for years and use a lot less electricity. They deliver superior comfort for a lot less money over time, so you should be able to recoup the upfront cost without any trouble. They are so EZ to install. Install it the same way you would in a regular wood window.
Place it in the window and spread the sides. Your done! Thanks Porchguy! And I was also concerned about the window being strong, or rigid enough to support the unit. Sounds to me that it's pretty common for people to mount these in vinyl windows from what you're saying, which surprises me a little. Thanks again. Designing around an air conditioner in a condo. How is water removed from the BTU air conditioner? Window Air Conditioner Turns off not on eco. If you are planning on drilling holes into a vinyl window, you should be advised it may void your factory warranty.
If you are planning on drilling into the wood frame you may void any installation warranty. I'd check with the manufacturer and installer before purchasing the windows. If they tell you it won't void any warrantys, I'd make sure to get it in writing. Thanks Sky. I hadn't thought of that before, but yeah I can see where that could potentially void the warranty.
If anyone has any ideas please throw em at me. If you are having a window installation company do your windows, I'd bring the AC problem up to them. There can be some issues depending on the sill design ie. Some manuf. Or you can get a bracket that can be installed into the wall stud below the AC unit. If the AC bracket can be installed by drilling into the wood, you should be OK as long as the trim coil is sealed at the hole.
I can almost guarantee you the warranty will be voided if you drill into the vinyl sill. We always obtain a written exclusion from the factory even when the window has a wired security alarm system, just to protect the customer. If you can get an exclusion, make sure the holes are sealed up well as it could allow water seepage that will eventually rot the wood casing under it. Thanks Sky, will do! All you need is two screws to be sure the window is held in place to the sliding expander.
In most cases, once the window is closed, the screw holes will be below the sill and not visible. Only other way is to make a screw jack of some sort to put above the sash frame and below the widow frame to exert pressure down on the sash.
For my upper level I use pieces of hardwood that I cut to size for each side, stained and varnished of course. Those go in on the sides. I have the piece of foam that came with the window unit doubled over and in the bottom channel of the window.
With my custom aluminum bar across the top and woddwn pieces on the sides and foam on the bottom, all that's left needed is to seal it. I stuffed insulation into some of the bottom areas and then used that metal HVAC tape to block air flow between everything else.
Then I put some weatherstripping across the top aluminum bar. Trust me, there is no air leakage going through there! Then I stuffed some insulation where the upper and lower window meets. If I were doing a lower floor window, I would want something more secure, and would have some stainless steel plates made that were U shaped but shallow so I could screw them into the window unit and the insides of the window itself, that and the coupling thing described ny the other person.
I cut a 2x4 to width of window sill inside. Painted the 2x4 white. I used 90 deg. The duct has been wrapped in foil to increase efficiency. Much better than a window air conditioner! Rather than install a window air conditioner, consider a floor model. The floor model air conditioners with a vent hose put very little weight on vinyl frames. Their vent outlet fits between any frame baffle lips.
Floor air conditioners should be the recommendation for any apartment with vinyl windows and vinyl siding. The floor models can now be just as effective, efficient, and easy to operate as a window air conditioner. One disadvantage of the floor models is they do not drain outside the way window air conditioners do. If you use a floor model air conditioner, you must pay attention to the condensation tank or bucket. You must empty it from time to time. Another disadvantage of a floor model is, unless it has two hoses rare in economy models , the air conditioner will create negative pressure.
Otherwise you will draft air in from your kitchen and bathroom vents, or worse, the apartment next door, above, or below. The key to protecting a vinyl window lip is to distribute the weight of the air conditioner around the lip, onto the interior stool and the exterior sill. Home Depot and Lowes both sell shims in the lumber section. You can stack shims to create just enough height to get over one or both lips.
We will demonstrate the technique. You will want to look at the bottom of your air conditioner before setting shims. Some air conditioners are designed with a certain window shape in mind, or with feet or other unevenness. Proper shimming will leave the air conditioner slightly angled downward outside. This will permit rain and condensation to drain outside.
You may need to shim at two levels depending on the design of your window air conditioner and window frame. Danger: never lean out of a window. Only your arms can go out as needed to hold a screen or to hold the back of the air conditioner.
If your window has a full-height screen, you will need to remove it entirely. It is held in place with two hidden leaf springs. Open both sashes toward the middle, reach around the sashes with two long arms or a friend, and each pull gently on both right corners of the full-height screen toward the left.
If the full-height screen slides and stops hard, switch sides and pull in the other direction. Pull more forcefully in this direction to compress the two springs. Be gentle: the corner tabs get brittle and break over time. The pulled side will come clear of the plastic channel. Push out a small distance and the full-height screen will come loose. When the full-height screen is loose, change your grip to the center bar, rather than the corners.
Hold on firmly as you navigate the full-height screen out of the channel on each side, out away from the house. Kevin Ricks Contact options for registered users. Show Quoted Text. Reply to Kevin Ricks. Put a support block of wood so the weight does not rest on the vinyl. Reply to bamboo. I meant to include that I will NOT take the tech's advice. Dugie Show Quoted Text. Reply to hallerb. Martik Contact options for registered users. Reply to Martik. CarolG Contact options for registered users.
My main concern was that I did not want to put nail holes in my vinyl windows.
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