It works in much the same way as the Windsurfer but is a bit more flexible when it comes to size and materials. I used a spare chip clip. Scotch or masking tape is also good to have on hand. As you can see, my deep dish wifi extenders came out way bigger than they needed to be, but they still worked pretty well.
See our test results below:. We recorded the signal strength in decibel-milliwatts dBm and the distance at which the signal dropped below dBm and became unusable from outside the house. The extenders were pointed out a window where in the testing direction. Without any extender , standing about 10 feet away in the same room, we recorded dBm. The signal dropped below dBm at a distance of approximately feet.
The Windsurfer extender increased the signal strength to dBm , an 8 dBm improvement when standing in the same room. The distance at which the signal dropped out also increased to feet , stretching 20 feet further. The Deep Dish boosted signal strength to dBm , not quite what we got from the Windsurfer, but still a significant improvement. The wifi range rose to feet , 10 feet further than the Windsurfer and 30 feet more than no extender at all.
So the Deep Dish scored the best for range and the Windsurfer was best for power. You might be better off trying out a different material with the Deep Dish, as well as a smaller template. These results are not particularly scientific and are just meant to give you an idea of what to expect. Your mileage may vary. Both of these designs were meant to be used with wifi routers that have external antennae sticking out, but many modern routers—the modem-router combos you get from your ISP in particular—often use an internal antenna.
For those of you with multiple antennae, we recommend building multiple extenders. The bucket sits upside down outside in the rain. I lose about 1dB because of the plastic bucket so am running dB gain typically. Reply 11 years ago on Introduction. I will bet you anything if you hooked an antenna analizer to this the SWR would be horrible.
And the gain is probly non existant? When you work with SHF it tends to be really lossy So just hooking it up would lose half your signal. Two simpathy stars. By Corrugator Supercilii Follow. More by the author:. Here's one done by a plucky 5 year old Essential tools include a pair of safety scissors. This one is made from a skinny plastic folder, cut from the template of a printout. Did you make this project?
Share it with us! I Made It! Remote Control Light Switch by alanmerritt in Arduino. Reply Upvote. Sit infront of it and pray wifi signal will come from heaven?
Most incomplete explanation ever. Havadurumu15 4 years ago. CherokeeN1 5 years ago. Download Article Explore this Article Steps. Tips and Warnings. Related Articles. Article Summary. Understand how this works. In theory, placing a sheet of aluminum behind your router will help focus your Wi-Fi toward your preferred source with increased power, thus increasing the range.
This can help you stay connected to the Internet on items like consoles or desktop computers that are just outside of your Wi-Fi's range. This is unlikely to work if your preferred item is more than a few feet outside of your router's Wi-Fi range. Gather the necessary tools. In order to create your Wi-Fi booster, you will need the following items: An empty, clean ml Wash out the can.
Fill up the can with warm water, let it sit for a few seconds, then dump it out and repeat a few more times. Doing this ensures that your can's inside is as clean as possible. This is easiest to do when your can is freshly empty rather than several hours or days old.
You may want to leave the can upside-down on a paper towel to allow it to dry before you cut into it. Remove the tab from the top of the can. This is most easily accomplished by pulling up on the tab, rotating it degrees, and prying it up until it snaps off. Cut the bottom off of the can. Using a hacksaw or your Stanley knife, remove entirely the bottom of the can. Be sure to cut as close to the bottom of the can as is possible.
Create the base of the Wi-Fi booster. Cut almost all the way around what used to be the top of the can, making sure to leave around half an inch of the can attaching the top to the rest of the can. At this point, you can flip over the can; the former top will now serve as the can's base. Make a vertical cut all the way down the can. Using your Stanley knife, cut down the side opposite of the section of the can that's attaching the base to the rest of the can.
The cut should be positioned so that when you spread out the can's sides, the base of the can is centered. Peel out the sides of the can. Now that the sides of the can aren't attached to each other, you should be able to pry them apart to form a radar dish-shaped item.
Be careful when doing this—the edges of the can are sharp. If you notice any remaining residue inside of the can, scrub it out and then dry off the can before proceeding. Place adhesive on the bottom of the Wi-Fi booster's base. Place a small amount of poster tack on what used to be the top of the can.
This will help hold the can in place. Double-sided tape is another viable option here. Place the booster behind the router. The booster's "dish" should be facing in the direction toward which you want to boost the signal. Depending on how your router is designed, the way that you place the booster may vary: If your router has an antenna, you should be able to thread the antenna through the drinking hole in the bottom of the base.
If your router has no antenna, make sure that the can is behind the router, and that the router's front e. Enjoy your boosted Wi-Fi. While the boost to your Wi-Fi will be fairly minimal, you may still notice a change in your Internet speed or consistency where you previously struggled.
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